On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Calzadilla de la Cueza To Sahagún

March 30, 2012 — 7 Comments

Trees were scattered, and the wind bent the young ones almost forty-five degrees. I didn’t know if I was in some kind of wind belt, but I thought it would be a great place for windmills. Raindrops fell for a few minutes before the clouds lightened, and for a moment, I saw my shadow, albeit a very light one. I patted my shadow’s head, and it quickly disappeared. It was a cruel temptation of sun because soon, the rain poured and pelted my face. I swore at the wind many times, but it just blew harder… From Page 116, Camino De Santiago In 20 Days.

On my last post, On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Carrión de los Condes To Calzadilla de la Cueza, I had concluded walking for the day for almost two hours in a fierce storm. Well, I woke up to a morning that was not much better. Now I’ll continue with my journey on the Camino de Santiago as I left Calzadilla de la Cueza, Castilla y León. Even if you don’t have my book, you can learn more about walking the French Way or Camino Francés (map from Wikipedia Commons).

This was the hostal where I stayed in Calzadilla de la Cueza. Although it was a little expensive, it was good break from the albergues. When I was there, the private room was simple but comfortable and clean. Wi-Fi was also included, and I was happy to catch up with emails and phone calls. As I was leaving at 10 AM (yes, very late), a van pulled up to the doorway, with a load full of pilgrims and gear. These pilgrims were either behind on their Camino, or chose to skip a long section. The hostal didn’t accept guests until noon, so they had a long wait ahead.

Photo of hostal, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain


The senda leaving Calzadilla de la Cueza with the appropriate sign…

Photo of Marker cement, gravel path, tree, farmland, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain


Senda de Peregrinos.

Photo of sign, clouds, trees, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain


Another senda photo. I’ll let it speak for itself.

Photo of gravel path, tree, farmland, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain


A rest or service area across the highway.

Photo of clouds, rest area, service area, highway, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain


Yes, more senda.

Photo of gravel path, highway, clouds, our land Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain


  Farmland as far as I could see.

Photo of farmland, green, clouds, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain


Entering the village of Ledigos.

Photo of cloudy skies, gravel path, green farmland, village, Ledigos, Spain


Please watch my YouTube video, and imagine walking into this wind for about ten hours. And this wasn’t even the worst.


The Iglesia de San Pedro in Terradillos de los Templarios. It was typical of the architecture and building materials in this area. The architecture was definitely changing, although I wouldn’t understand it better until later in the day at Sahagún. The dominant building material in much of this area was adobe bricks. They are bricks made of natural materials such as sand or clay, mixed with water and traditionally an organic material, such as manure or straw. To get an idea on how adobe bricks are made, please watch this YouTube video entitled How to Make an Adobe BrickPhoto of church, Iglesia, clouds, trees, adobe bricks, Terradillos de los Templarios, Spain


And more senda. As you can tell, it was a very quiet day on the Camino.

Photo of gravel path, clouds, farmland, Terradillos de los Templarios, Spain


I hadn’t seen many mustard flowers for the past few days and it was good to see the splashes of yellow again. As I wrote on page 117, “…a wind farm appeared and I’m sure on this day enough electricity was generated to power all of Spain for a year.”

Photo of clouds, farmland, windmills, flowers, Terradillos de los Templarios, Spain,


Approaching the village of Moratinos. Notice the hill on the right had doors and chimneys. I presumed they were used for storage.

Photo of gravel road, cloudy skies, farmland, village, Moratinos, Spain


The small plaza in front of the church was in need of some attention.

Photo of church, Plaza, Adobe, Moratinos, Spain


San Nicolás del Real Camino was another village with a church similar to the recent ones.

Photo of Adobe, bricks, church, clouds, San Nicolás del Real Camino, Spain


The marker on the border as I left the province of Palencia and entered León.

Photo of cement marker, scallop shell, Sahagún, Spain


The large town of Sahagún is in the distance.

Photo of freeway, clouds, fence, farmland, Sahagún, Spain


To this point on the Camino, I hadn’t seen a horse with a pilgrim rider. The rider was walking and leading the horse down the slight hill.

Photo of farmland, gray sky, clouds, horse, rider , gravel path, Sahagún, Spain


Scary looking skies to the north.

Photo of purple sky, green farmland, Sahagún, Spain


I walked fast, hoping to catch up with the horse and rider. However, the pilgrim soon mounted and they galloped away.

Photo of clouds, tree, past, senda, Sahagún, Spain


Just east of Sahagún, the path crossed the highway to this bridge over the Río Valderaduey. A Roman town was once in this area.

Photo of Stone bridge, 2 arches, River, trees, farmland, clouds, Sahagún, Spain


I know I have said this before, but it really bothered me when yellow arrows were painted on stone bridges and other landmarks. This one wasn’t even needed as it was obvious where the Camino led.

Photo of Stone bridge, surface , River, trees, farmland, clouds, Sahagún, Spain


The Ermita de la Virgen del Puente was again similar in architectural style to the previous churches I had passed during the morning. I will explain the architecture better on my next post. The church was being renovated and was surrounded by a fence.

Photo of church, Adobe, bricks, clouds, Ermita de la Virgen del Puente, east of Sahagún, Spain


I hadn’t seen many poppies for days either. I stopped at this small patch just as a bit of sun emerged through the clouds.

Photo of red poppies, farmland, clouds, Sahagún, Spain

I hope you enjoyed this post. After walking into gusting wind all morning and afternoon, I was tired and frustrated. I had never experienced anything like it. I was looking forward to having a break in Sahagún. To say that Sahagún was unique along the Camino, would be an understatement. On my next post, On The Camino de Santiago In Sahagún, Spain, I’ll visit this interesting and important Camino town. Please join me.

If you have my book, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, or have ordered it, I really appreciate your support. It’s also out on Kindle. My Goodreads page has reviews and more information. Please share this post, and thanks for your time.

About Randall St. Germain

Randall St. Germain, author of Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, is a middle-aged Canadian Boy who is passionate about nature, photography, hiking, music, and self-improvement. After the death of his mother, he chose to walk the famous pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago, across the north of Spain, despite knowing little about it. He certainly didn’t plan to write a book until the latter days of his Camino. Similar to walking the Camino, writing and publishing a book was a learning experience. It was also very rewarding, and part of his ongoing journey. Please join him as he takes you along on his journey in Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, and on his blog Camino My Way.


7 responses to On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Calzadilla de la Cueza To Sahagún

  1. What gorgeous photographs and your video definitely got the message across–I can’t imagine walking into a wind like that! Thanks so much for sharing your journey with us!

    • Thanks for your comment, although my photos will be better on my next post. All it takes is a little sun and blue skies. A little less wind made a big difference too.

  2. Darlene Foster April 1, 2012 at 10:10 pm

    This post made me feel I was walking along with you (but not as tired as if I actually were!) I put your book on my wish list and will tell others about it.

  3. Thanks so much. Yes, some days I was very tired and my feet were so sore. I made it and I’m happy I was able to walk the Camino. I hope you can walk at least part of it one day. I think you would enjoy it.

  4. I’m very happy reading about El Camino de Santiago. My husband and I walked (all) the Camino.
    from St. Jean P de port (France) to Santiago de Compostela. It took us 32 days to completed it. And then to Finisterry…. But we were enjoying every steep of the way. As you mentioned in the book, same days are very difficulty to finish the 30’s same thing….Kms. to reach the “albergue.” But…. The mornings are full of energy, listening the birds sinning and seen the green fields with red poppies is nature at it’s best.
    Reading your post it’s like doing el Camino all over again. Thank you !!

  5. Teresa, thanks for your comments. I don’t expect anyone to relive my journey from my posts but to relive their own. If someone has never walked the Camino, I want them to go on their own journey through my posts and get an idea what it’s like to walk. Listening to the birds in the mornings was always an incentive to get going, although I often took a while to wake up. Even when I struggled at midday, I would stop and listen to the birds if they were around. I’m listening to birds outside my window at this very moment and their voices always bring me a smile. The red poppies and lush green in Spring along the Camino is something I’ll never forget. Thanks for stopping by 🙂

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