On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Boadilla del Camino To Carrión de los Condes

March 19, 2012 — 6 Comments
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The trickle of pilgrims started leaking out of the albergue at five o’clock and by six, many had already left. It wouldn’t have been so bad if my mattress wasn’t near the boot rack. Most of the early risers were over fifty years old and they talked and slammed the door; one idiot even turned on the light. Many left while it was still pitch black outside. In the past, I had been criticized by certain people for walking late. At least I hadn’t walked in the dark, yet… From Page 102, Camino De Santiago In 20 Days.

Now, I’ll continue with my journey on the Camino de Santiago as I left Boadilla del Camino, Castilla y León. Even if you don’t have my book, you can still enjoy this post, and learn more about walking the French Way or Camino Francés (map from Wikipedia Commons).

On my last post, On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino, I had arrived after an enjoyable evening walk, however, the next morning was overcast and cold again.

As I wrote on page 108, “The albergue’s large backyard was accented with flowers, shrubs, and a metal statue of two pilgrims. It was a kind of place where I could spend a sunny afternoon, but for some reason, I always seemed to be preoccupied on the Camino.”

Photo of planters, sidewalk, trees, clouds, pool, Alberque yard, Boadilla del Camino, Spain

Besides the poor sleep, I was happy with the albergue. The Canadian hospitalero and his staff were very friendly, and took good care of everyone. The 16th century Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asunción was directly across from the albergue’s front gate.

Photo of Church, yard, farmhouse, clouds, Boadilla del Camino

 

In front of the church was the 15th century El Rollo Gótico that was once used to chain and shame, or hang, those who had apparently done something wrong. I apologize this photo was cut-off.

Photo of Plaza, clouds, village, picota, church, Boadilla del Camino

 

This cute horse was in a yard between houses. I wished I had an apple for her or him.

Photo of Horse, field, yard, grass, Boadilla del Camino, Spain

 

The water tower on the outskirts of Boadilla del Camino.

Photo of Adobe bricks, ruins, clouds, gravel path, water tower, Spain

 

From Boadilla del Camino, the Camino followed this path along a dike that separated the Canal de Castilla from the farmland on the left. Despite the cool morning, it was a great way to start the day. The path was flat and there were numerous birds singing and flying.

Photo of Canal, farmland, clouds, path gravel, trees,

 

After walking for just over an hour, I arrived to…

Photo of Water, canal, gravel path, trees, Frómista, Spain

 

this lock at the end of the Canal de Castilla, just before Frómista.

Photo of clouds tree, river, canal, grass, lock, Canal de Castilla, Frómista, Spain

 

Photo of Water, River, trees, stone, Lock, Frómista, Spain

 

I didn’t take any photos in Frómista for some reason, but I remember the Camino only touched the edge of the downtown area. I continued walking until I reached this memorial, just before an overpass across the N-620 freeway.

Photo of Metal sign, Pilgrim, stars, cane, clouds, path, Frómista, Spain

 

Once I crossed the freeway, I arrived at something that was notorious on the Camino de Santiago—the senda. Basically, the senda was a gravel path adjacent to, or near, the highway. For the next few days, it would be a prominent feature on the Camino. Some pilgrims who were short of time opted to skip sections, such as these, that went on for many kilometers. My thoughts regarding the senda were similar to those with the meseta. To make good time, or make up for lost time on the Camino, it would be on the senda. I also knew there were mountains a few days ahead that would likely slow me down.

Photo of Gravel path, sign, farmland, highway, Frómista, Spain

 

As I wrote on page 110, “It was Saturday, and by far the day with the most people I had seen walking the Camino. Many were Spanish families out for the day… I saw men in jeans, women with purses, young children with tiny backpacks, and babies in strollers.”

Photo of People, adults, children, parents, stone, gravel path, highway, trees, Frómista

 

The Casa Consistorial in the village of Población de Campos.

Photo of Stone building, patio, door, porch, Casa Consistorial, Población de Campos,

 

The bridge over the Río Ucieza would be the highlight for a while.

Photo of Stone bridge, trees, grass, clouds, arches, Población de Campos

 

Back on the senda.

Photo of Gravel path, highway, farmland, clouds, Población de Campos

 

The Church of San Lorenzo in the village of Revenga de Campos. The style and architecture of the churches were changing, although I wouldn’t understand it clearer until the next day.

Photo of Adobe bricks, stork nest, bell tower, church, clock, Revenga de Campos

 

In Revenga de Campos, the statue of St. James commemorated the 2004 Holy Year.

Photo of Metal statue, Revenga de Campos, Spain

 

Back on the senda.

Photo of Cross, gravel path, Way marks, Clouds, trees, Revenga de Campos

 

I don’t know the significance of this concrete or cement cross that stood in the middle of a farmer’s field. It was weathered and looked as if it had been there for ages.

Photo of Concrete cross, Green field, trees, Revenga de Campos, Spain

 

Originally, I thought this bird was a cardinal but after posting this photo to my Facebook page, a helpful reader noted it was a Crested Lark.

Photo of clouds, Cardinal, sign, Villarmentero de Campos

 

The walk through Villarmentero de Campos only took a few moments.

Photo of Clouds, buildings, road, pass, whitewashed, church, Villarmentero de Campos, Spain

 

I wrote on page 110, “It was sad but sometimes comical watching people scramble on the side of the senda trying to find somewhere to go to the washroom. There were no public washrooms and very few private spots. Land was mostly flat, trees were sparse, buildings were in villages, and usually, there were many people around. Some went in plain sight… to be honest though, it was only comical because it wasn’t me.”

Photo of gravel path, Camino waymarks, clouds, farmland, highway, Villarmentero de Campos

 

The Camino didn’t pass through the village of Villalcázar de Sirga. Photo of church, farmland green, village, clouds, trees, Villalcázar de Sirga

 

I had seen signs for businesses in the town of Carrión de los Condes, and would have my break there.

Photo of Gravel path, sign, highway, clouds, farmland, Carrión de los Condes

 

I had a lot of time to think, and thank the senda and this typical landscape. It was during times such as these that the idea for my book was hatched, although I didn’t really decide until the latter few days of my journey.

Photo of Farmland green, clouds, Carrión de los Condes, Spain

 

Dark clouds above and farmland by my sides.

Photo of Clouds, farmland, gravel path, highway, Carrión de los Condes

 

As I wrote on page 111, “I arrived at Carrión de los Condes exhausted. It was one o’clock, and I had walked about twenty-five kilometers with only a minor break. Now, I was going to have a good rest and a good meal.”

Photo of Sign, gravel path, farmland, trees, clouds, Carrión de los Condes, Spain

I will leave it here as I entered Carrión de los Condes. On my next post, On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Carrión de los Condes To Calzadilla de la Cueza, I visited Carrión de los Condes, had an interesting lunch, met a friend from the albergue in Boadilla del Camino before saying goodbye, and walking through a fierce spring storm.  Please join me.

If you have my book, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, or have ordered it, I really appreciate your support. It’s also out on Kindle. My Goodreads page has reviews and more information. Please share this post, and thanks for your time.



About Randall St. Germain

Randall St. Germain, author of Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, is a middle-aged Canadian Boy who is passionate about nature, photography, hiking, music, and self-improvement. After the death of his mother, he chose to walk the famous pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago, across the north of Spain, despite knowing little about it. He certainly didn’t plan to write a book until the latter days of his Camino. Similar to walking the Camino, writing and publishing a book was a learning experience. It was also very rewarding, and part of his ongoing journey. Please join him as he takes you along on his journey in Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, and on his blog Camino My Way.

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6 responses to On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Boadilla del Camino To Carrión de los Condes

  1. There’s a beautiful place to stay at Carreon de los Condes…the San Zoilo Monastery, a 4-5 Star hotel similar to any Paradores. I treated myself to some luxury, food, lodging and place of rest for the night.

    • Excellent Paolo. I was still early so after an interesting lunch of local cuisine, I kept walking to Calzadilla de la Cueza. The San Zoilo Monastery did look interesting.

  2. Hi, Randall!

    I’m enjoying your blog as I’m reliving my Camino from a couple of years ago…I biked it. Your texts and photos bring back lots of memories !One comment…the path next to the road isn’t really a “senda”…It’s an “andadero”….it comes from the verb “andar” “to walk” and it’s like a path for people walking. A “senda” is usually a different type of path….not one next to a road like these.

    • Liz, I’m glad you’re enjoying the posts. Regarding the name of the path, I’ll beg to differ and will stay with senda. This is the first time I have heard of the path adjacent to the road referred to as “andadero.” In fact, John Brierly refers to this stretch as “souless senda.” Thanks for your comment though. I appreciate you stopping by 🙂

  3. Thinking about walking the camino to Santiago with my baby ( 1.4 years) using the chariot stroller and a small backpack. Some friends say the pyrenees is possible and others say do not attempt. What do you recommend.

    • Hi Mia. I guess everything is possible with effort. Much of the Camino is paved to the top of the Pyrenees but there will be some rough trails, especially on the descent into Roncesvalles. I’m not sure if taking a baby on the Camino is the best idea, especially in the heat or cold. That’s just my opinion though. I only saw one baby with pilgrims during my three Caminos. Further, staying in the albergues may be tough too. I wish your family a safe and pleasant journey. Buen Camino 🙂

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