On the Camino de Santiago in Spain, Zubiri to Pamplona

January 3, 2012 — 16 Comments

Zabaldica was another pleasant hamlet and had an old church, with its overgrown yard and cracked walls that had seen better days. I wondered how many parishioners attended the churches in these hamlets. Better yet, how many people were left in these hamlets? Nearby, a beautiful stone house had attached to its walls a lovely lilac shrub in full bloom. I could smell the scent from across the road but walked right up to a flower for closer whiff. I closed my eyes as my mind and body ingested the sweet smell… From Page 41, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days. I don’t know why, but the scent of lilac always makes me feel great.

On my last post, On the Camino de Santiago, The Pyrenees to Zubiri, Spain, I completed my first day on the French Way. It was a day full of excitement, but also one that was very tiring. Now, I’ll continue my journey on the Camino de Santiago. Even if you don’t have my book, you can still enjoy this post, and learn more about walking the French Way or Camino Francés (map from Wikipedia Commons).

Leaving Zubiri on a cool Spring morning.

Zubiri Spain Camino de Santiago


The path out of Zubiri is mostly dirt and gravel except for stretches that had recently been covered with stones. Be careful walking on paths such as these when they are wet. The condition of the Camino early on in Navarra was excellent, for the most part.

Zubiri path Spain Camino de Santiago



I stopped for a moment to watch these beautiful horses graze in a field underneath cherry blossom trees in bloom. Let’s take a closer look…

Zubiri horse flowers Spain Camino Frances



Zubiri horse Spain Camino de Santiago



Whitewashed and stone houses in the hamlet of Osteritz, about two kilometers from Zubiri.

Osteritz white house Spain Camino Frances



This church in Ilarratz is La Abadia de Eskirotz y Ilarratz aka The Abbey. It is now in private hands and undergoing a restoration. The owner is Neill Le Roux. Thanks to Piet and Neill for their help with identification.

Osteritz church Spain Camino Frances



The view toward the village of Urdaniz from just outside of the enclosed graveyard.

Osteritz church graveyard Spain Camino Frances



A good example of the beautiful stone houses in this area. Let’s take a closer look…

Osteritz house brick Spain Camino de santiago



I would have loved to see these vines in bloom.

Osteritz vines brick Spain Camino de santiago



The stone bridge over the Río Arga just as we enter Larrasoaña. The walk to this point had been very pleasant, except for some mud and one hill. The Arga was very prominent in this area, as much of the walk from Zubiri to Pamplona was along the Arga Valley.

Larrasoaña bridge Río Arga Camino de Santiago



The Church of San Nicolas in Larrasoaña.

Larrasoaña Church San Nicolas Camino de Santiago



Larrasoaña was a typical Camino village with one long main road through the center. This was the quiet main street at mid-morning. Pilgrims who had stayed in Larrasoaña had left much earlier and we also have the choice of bypassing the downtown. As with all the villages, I would recommend walking through this ancient Camino town.

Larrasoaña downtown Camino de Santiago



One of the more prominent homes.

Larrasoaña home door Camino de Santiago



Larrasoaña street Spain Camino de Santiago



Here’s me on the bridge leaving Larrasoaña.

Randall. St. Germain bridge leaving Larrasoaña.



Iglesia de Transfiguración in the village of Akerreta.

Akerreta iglesia Transfiguración Spain Camino



Still a good walk to Pamplona.

Larrasoaña sign Camino de Santiago


The Camino followed the highway outside Larrasoaña. Care had to be taken while walking along the busy highways. If I have my information correct, it was along this stretch that a Canadian woman was hit by a car and killed a few years ago.

Akerreta highway Navarra Spain Camino



Akerreta highway Spain Camino de santiago



Across the highway, my eyes fixated on a tiny white cross that sat on top of a jagged, rocky outcrop or peak.

Akerreta rock Spain Camino de santiago



Akerreta rock cross Spain Camino de santiago



On our way to Arre and Pamplona.

Irotz path Spain Camino de Santiago



The Camino climbed to an alto. Looking back along the Arga Valley.

Irotz farmland Spain Camino de Santiago



Looking in the distance to Pamplona.

Irotz Pamplona Spain Camino de Santiago



The Iglesia de San Pedro in the village of Irotz. This was a popular spot for pilgrims to take a much-needed break on the benches provided.

Iglesia de san pedro Irotz, Spain, Camino de Santiago



I can’t figure out which church this is.

Zabaldica iglesia Camino de santiago Navarra



The Iglesia San Esteban in Zabaldica.

Zabaldica iglesia San Esteban Camino Navarra



Loved this home with Wisteria.

Zabaldica home lillac Camino Navarra



Zabaldica home Camino de santiago



The path leading to Arre.

Zabaldica path Camino de santiago



 One more short climb before…

Villava path Camino de santiago



descending to the stone bridge over the Río Ulzama in Arre, a suburb of Pamplona.

Villava Río Ulzama Spain Camino Santiago



Villava sign Spain Camino Santiago



Short man-made waterfalls spanned the river. Loved this view from the bridge.

Villava Río Ulzama navarra Camino Santiago



Villava Río Ulzama espana Camino Santiago



Entering the suburb of Arre.

Villava art espana Camino Frances



One more look at the Río Ulzama.

Villava Río Ulzama espana Camino Frances



Except for pilgrims and the odd local, the streets were deserted.

Villava downtown Spain Camino Frances



The Edificio Besta-Jira was originally built in 1911 as a casino. However, it didn’t last long as a casino and was soon taken over by the church.

Edificio Besta Jira Villava Navarra



The Palacio Uranga in Burlada was designed by Máximo Goizueta, possibly with some influence by the famed Spanish architect, Antoni Gaudí.

Palacio Uranga Antoni Gaudí Burlada Navarra



Palacio Uranga art Burlada Navarra



Palacio Uranga Antoni Gaudí Burlada Spain



The colorful and decorative façade of a home along the Camino in Burlada.

Burlada home patio Spain Camino



One last walk through Burlada before entering the city of Pamplona.

Burlada homes street Spain Camino

In Burlada, I took off my boot to find the beginning of my first blister. From that point on, blisters would be an important and often painful factor during each day of my Camino.

I hope you enjoyed this post, as I will stop in the suburb of Burlada. On my next post, On the Camino de Santiago in Pamplona, Spain, I’ll cross the Magdalena Bridge, and focus solely on the great city of Pamplona. Please join me.

If you have my book, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, or have ordered it, I really appreciate your support. It’s also out on Kindle and Kobo. My Goodreads and Amazon pages have reviews and more information. Please share this post, and thanks for your time.

About Randall St. Germain

Randall St. Germain, author of Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, is a middle-aged Canadian Boy who is passionate about nature, photography, hiking, music, and self-improvement. After the death of his mother, he chose to walk the famous pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago, across the north of Spain, despite knowing little about it. He certainly didn’t plan to write a book until the latter days of his Camino. Similar to walking the Camino, writing and publishing a book was a learning experience. It was also very rewarding, and part of his ongoing journey. Please join him as he takes you along on his journey in Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, and on his blog Camino My Way.


16 responses to On the Camino de Santiago in Spain, Zubiri to Pamplona

  1. Love it – still inspiring my dreams. Thanks.

    • Anita, you’re welcome. Keep checking back. I still have a long ways to go to Santiago de Compostela, and then off to Finisterre.

  2. Too many memories! Great writing! reading lots of these would push me to re-do it next summer 😀

    • Thanks a lot, Mina. As for someone who has already completed the Camino, I’m glad you enjoy my posts. My goal is to have these posts appeal to everyone — those who have walked all or part of the Camino, and those who haven’t gone yet or didn’t even know about it. As Anita said, I hope to inspire others to find the Camino one day. Buen Camino, Mina.

  3. Writing from Davis station in Antarctica your web site brings back good memories of the camino I walked with my daughter in August 2011.
    Deal with those blisters as soon as possible and keep a watch on them, especially if your feet get wet and your skin soft. Tape your feet if necessary until they toughen up.
    We were lucky not to have a single blister between us.

    • I’m glad you’re enjoying the posts. I think you’re my first reader from Antarctica. That would be cool for you to write a guest post from there. Please let me know if you’re interested. Back to the Camino, I never had much luck with my feet and blisters. Even on the Camino del Norte last summer, I thought I was better prepared but still had problems. I do tape up my feet though, having learnt my lesson after my first Camino. Still managed a few bad ones. I do have wimpy feet.

  4. Yes, I’m interested in writing a guest post. I’m leaving Davis station for Mawson station tomorrow by ship so I won’t have access to the internet for some days. I’ll check your web site when I’m there.
    We were very lucky with the weather on the Camino in August 2011 – coolest August on record and in Galicia we had just a few hours rain. No mud or snow to deal with. Bussed from Burgos to Leon due to time restrictions but walked the additional 100kms from Santiago to Finisterre.
    We completed the 700kms in 26 days without rushing about getting up extra early or wearing ourselves out – kept the walking to a steady pace.

    • Henk, thanks for your comment. I will email you the details for the guest post. I’m glad your weather was cool for August. It sure makes a difference as I learned during hot temperatures on my Camino Del Norte last summer. On my Camino Francés, I also had a cool April and May but that felt like winter. It’s too bad you messed the Meseta. I hope you get to return one day.

  5. hi! your photos are inspiring. a friend is currently doing the entire camino on her own and i am just loving her fb posts too! hoping i can do it sometime in the near future.

  6. Those blisters need immediate attention. If your feet get wet that will contribute to this situation. Do you have medication that will releive that problem. Always replace wet socks as soon as possible. Have a safe and blessed journey………..

    • Thanks Tom but I’ve been home for a long time. Blisters were a problem for me on both Caminos but worse on the Camino del Norte. I have tried various methods of prevention but continue to have problems. Buen Camino to you 🙂

  7. The ‘aforementioned house with lilacs’ is actually clad with a wisteria vine.
    Wisteria blossoms most commonly with purple/lilac coloured racemes but also has varieties
    sporting white or pink blossoms.

    Many thanks from this ‘armchair pilgrim’ who joins you on the Camino by means of your lovely photos and commentary.

    • I’m very sorry to take so long. This was in my spam for some reason. I know now about the Wisteria which means there is a booboo in my book. They were quite beautiful on the stone. Thanks so much for your kind words and thanks for visiting my blog 🙂

  8. Sandra Schipritt October 12, 2017 at 11:54 am

    My Daughter just text me from Zubiri,sounds breathtaking.Sandra Schipritt from Cheshire.Ct

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