On The Camino de Santiago In Spain, Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

March 4, 2012 — 2 Comments
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After a very dry sandwich, I got myself organized and continued the short climb. The meseta is land that is flat to gently rolling and dominated by various agricultural crops including wheat and hay, and grasslands for grazing sheep and cattle. In North America, we would call it a prairie. People have opposing views of the meseta. Some say it’s beautiful, while others say it’s boring. One thing is for certain: to make good time or to make up for lost time on the Camino, one of the best places was on the meseta…. From Page 98, Camino De Santiago In 20 Days. If you’re going to walk the Camino between Burgos and Leon, you’ll definitely get to know the meseta very well. You may even have a strong opinion about it too.

On my last post, My Visit To The Burgos Cathedral, La Catedral de Burgos, I focused on the beautiful cathedral, truly one of my highlights along the entire Camino de Santiago. After that, I explored off the Camino for a few blocks, which I recommend for everyone if you have time. There is fantastic architecture, interesting shops, and your choice of delicious looking tapas at one of the many bars. I stuffed myself at one particular tapas bar near the cathedral.

Here’s one last look at the Burgos Cathedral as I walked away. One day, I’ll return and spend at least a day there.

Photo of Spires, clouds, blue sky, buildings, Cathedral, Burgos, Spain

 

This arch led to what looked like a park. The stork nest on the top was huge.

Photo of Arch, stone, spires, clouds, trees, Burgos, Spain

 

I can’t remember what this monument represented.

Photo of Art, stone, Burgos, Spain

 

The Camino entered a bustling, modern suburb, where there were plenty of shops and grocery stores including  Mercadona. This fountain was in the Paseo de la Isla, a long, narrow park on the northeast side of the Río Arlanzón.

Photo of Fountain, Park, Burgos, Spain

 

The Camino crossed over the Río Arlanzón on this stone bridge and entered the Parque El Parral.

Photo of stone bridge, Trees, arches, Burgos, Spain

 

The walk out of Burgos, through the grounds of the University of Burgos, had many modern art pieces including this one.

Photo of Trees, monument, stone,, Burgos, Spain

 

The Hotel Puerta Romeros, on the outskirts of Burgos, is a choice for pilgrims wishing to have a break from the albergues.

Photo of Cross, crucerio, stone building, clouds, Plaza, Burgos, Spain

 

The Romeros Gate, on the grounds of the University of Burgos, dates to 1563. The gate leads to the Hospital del Rey, founded in 1195, and today is the centerpiece of the university and holds the Faculty of Law.

Photo of Stone, portal, University of Burgos Spain

 

This small church, with its brightly colored plaster, and white and cream coloured trim, was unique up until this point along the Camino.

Photo of Church, red, clouds, Burgos, Spain

 

As I wrote on page 97, “As much as I liked Burgos, it felt good to get out of civilization, and I was thankful for some peaceful solitude. I was happy to see trees and hear birds singing.”

Photo of Road, trees, farmland, clouds, Burgos, Spain

 

The Burgos Prison held many political prisoners during the Franco years.

Photo of Prison, gray skies, trees, Burgos, Spain

 

Since the Burgos Cathedral, I hadn’t seen another pilgrim until I met a cyclist who was on a long anticipated journey from his hometown in Switzerland to Santiago de Compostela. This stream was in a small park.

Photo of Stream, rocks, trees, Burgos, Spain

 

The nearby ermita looked to be recently rebuilt.

Photo of ermita,Church, park, Burgos, Spain

 

Another interesting Camino waymark showing the way to Santiago de Compostela.

Photo of Freeway, overpass, Camino marker shell, Burgos, Spain

 

The scenic view of the Río Arlanzón, near the village of Tardajos. As I wrote on page 97, “…here, the river looked peaceful and serene, as long as I didn’t glance over my shoulder at the freeway.”

Photo of River, trees, grass, bridge, peaceful, Tarajos, Spain

 

At the entrance to Tardajos, this stone monument showed the village to be about halfway along the Camino. I knew it wasn’t close and it would be another two days until I reached the halfway point.

Photo of Map, Spain, stone, trees, Plaza, Tarajos, Spain

 

Leaving Tardajos, back along farmland. The landscape was changing.

Photo of Farmland, hills, gravel road, skies, Tarajos, Spain

 

By the time I arrived in Rabé de las Calzadas, I was under something I hadn’t seen for days — a large patch of bright, blue sky. I was so happy and in a terrific mood. This was the 13th century Church of Santa Marina.

Photo of Iglesia, blue sky, Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain

 

Another ermita, leaving Rabé de las Calzadas.

Photo of Church, Bill, clouds, door, trees, Rabé de las Calzadas

 

As I left Rabé de las Calzadas, I entered a new landscape — the Spanish Meseta.Photo of Prairie, road gravel, farmland, clouds, Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain

 

One of the few rest stops and shelters along the Camino. I’m sure this would be well-utilized during the hot summer days. There was no washroom so, if needed, you had to find your own spot.

Photo of Fountain, trees, farmland, shelter, Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain

 

Much of the meseta was easy walking.

Photo of Farmland, Prairie, gravel road, trees, Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain

Photo of Farmland, hills, clouds, sun, Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain

 

Possibly because they broke up the monotony of the farmland, but I enjoyed looking at the rock piles. My mom used to tell me stories when she was a young girl at their homestead on the Canadian Prairie. They would pick rocks from the fields by hand and place them in piles. She told me that it was backbreaking work, and I couldn’t imagine doing it myself. The piles are still on the farm today. Regarding these along the meseta, I wondered how old they were. I imagined people throughout the centuries picking rocks and creating these piles, just like my mom did.

Photo of Rock piles, blue sky, farmland, Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain

 

I had a small climb to an alto with about another two kilometers to Hornillos del Camino where I would stay.

Photo of gravel road, hills, Hornillos del Camino, Spain

 

Photo of Prairie, meseta,, blue sky, gravel path, farmland, Hornillos del Camino, Spain

 

Sheep grazed at the entrance to Hornillos del Camino. These two men were the only people I had seen for almost two hours.

Photo of Road, men, sheep, hills, green grass, trees, Hornillos del Camino, Spain

 Photo of Sheep, grazing, field, Hornillos del Camino, Spain

 

Still a long ways to Santiago, however my guidebook said it was 488 kilometers and not 469.

Photo of Blue sky, building, green bench, sign, doors, Hornillos del Camino, Spain

 

The bright blue sky in the late evening. I hoped it would be the same when I left the next morning. It turned out that I had my hopes a little too high. This is the Church of San Román. I don’t know what the significance of the rooster on top of the monument is but I found it interesting.

Photo of Church, blue skies, rooster monument, stone, Hornillos del Camino, Spain

 

If you arrive late to Hornillos del Camino like I did, you’ll most likely stay here, in the school gymnasium, adjacent to the alberque.

Photo of school gym, sunlight, beds, Hornillos del Camino, Spain

I hope you enjoyed this post. I remember the sunny evenings I had on the Camino with fondness. It’s far easier walking in the sun than the cold rain. On my next post, The Camino de Santiago in Spain, Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz, I woke up to unexpected rain, walked through the meseta for hours, stopped at the ruins of an ancient monastery before taking shelter from a heavy spring storm in a true Camino town. Please join me.

If you have my book, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, or have ordered it, I really appreciate your support. It’s also out on Kindle. My Goodreads page has reviews and more information. Please share this post, and thanks for your time.



About Randall St. Germain

Randall St. Germain, author of Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, is a middle-aged Canadian Boy who is passionate about nature, photography, hiking, music, and self-improvement. After the death of his mother, he chose to walk the famous pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago, across the north of Spain, despite knowing little about it. He certainly didn’t plan to write a book until the latter days of his Camino. Similar to walking the Camino, writing and publishing a book was a learning experience. It was also very rewarding, and part of his ongoing journey. Please join him as he takes you along on his journey in Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, and on his blog Camino My Way.

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2 responses to On The Camino de Santiago In Spain, Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

  1. I´ve been following your blog, and enjoying it very much.
    Now, for the unimportant trivia: This “Hotel Puerta Romeros” surely takes his name after the building and the street. “Romero” was the name given to those who made the pilgrimage to Rome, and by derivation to all the pilgrims. So, it is very appropriate to leave Burgos for this place.

    • Thanks so much for that info. I never discussed the hotel or the gate in my book, but wanted to include the photos on this post. I never understood the significance of the gate until I returned. Feel free to comment. It’s not unimportant. Your contribution, even if it’s a correction or a criticism, is appreciated.

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