When I arrived in El Burgo Ranero just before eight-thirty, a group of pilgrims sitting outside the municipal albergue looked at me in disbelief. They gave the typical, “You’re #X$X& crazy!” stares, and I smiled and went inside. The albergue was full, so I went to the private one on the far edge of town. The hospitalera there said her albergue was also full, but she had private rooms available for €30. For some reason, I didn’t believe her albergue was full… From Page 120, Camino De Santiago In 20 Days.
When I reached the halfway point on the French Way of the Camino de Santiago in Sahagún, I didn’t really think about it too much. I didn’t jump up and down, or scream “hallelujah.” I was only halfway on an 800 kilometer walk, and still had a long ways to go. It was late afternoon anyway, and I wasn’t even sure where I’d be staying for the night. I hoped it would be in El Burgo Ranero, but it was almost 17 kilometers away. With only about 4 1/2 hours of daylight left, I needed to get moving. It turned out that the Camino between Sahagún and El Burgo Ranero, was mostly along senda. Walking was easy, there was little to see, and I had plenty of time to think. My mind would have been clearer though, if it wasn’t for the pain from a new blister forming. It was at a horrible spot, on the bottom of my right foot, at the base of the toes. Every time I stepped, I felt a little shot of pain.
I left my last post, On The Camino de Santiago In Sahagún, Spain, at the plaque for the halfway mark of the French Way, with the Arco San Benito in the background. Soon after, I arrived at this bridge over the Río Cea.
The slow-moving Río Cea looked so peaceful. According to Gitlitz & Davidson on page 235 in their book, The Pilgrimage Road To Santiago, a nearby forest was the site of a battle in 1085 where 40,000 Christians lost their lives.
This small patch of shrubs were in full bloom. I still haven’t figured out what they were, and if someone knows, please let me know.
Not only were the streets of Sahagún quiet, but so was the road leading out of town. Although the wind had decreased from the morning, as you can tell, it continued to be a windy day. If you have my book, you will be relieved that my frustration with the wind was mostly taken out during my one tantrum.
The senda was shaded for the time being before…
I was back into the open. The walking was easy, and this was where I had to make good time.
On page 120 of my book, I wrote, “The Camino arrived at an option, and here I had a tough decision. On the left was the Real Camino Francés, and on the right was the Roman route. I would have liked to take them both. Although I really enjoyed the Roman roads and architecture, I wanted to walk as much of the entire French Way as possible. It was a shame; I missed out on thirty-five kilometers of the Roman route, an entire day of walking. It would have to wait for another time.”
The marking of the directions was a little rough.
I chose the left route: the Real Camino Francés.
This was an interesting sign of a cartoon image of a pilgrim. Someone must have hit the sign with their car and sent it flying.
The Real Camino Francés was very similar to the track before the option.
The Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Perales was just east of Bercianos del Real Camino. It was once the site of a medieval hospice.
A home at the edge of Bercianos del Real Camino.
Toward the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral (I think that is meant to be the cathedral).
Leaving Bercianos del Real Camino. With the sun in my eyes, I put my sunglasses on. This was one of the few times I had actually needed them.
Crumbling walls. It was interesting seeing the building material in this part of Spain.
The Church of San Pedro.
A White Stork of Spain.
I had arrived at about 8:30 and had a bit of a problem finding a bed. The municipal albergue was full and they couldn’t find a space for me. I walked to the end of the town to a private albergue, but the hospitalera told me that her’s was also full. Finally, I found this albergue on the main street, and was lucky they had a bed. I wrote a page 121, “Not only did I have a bed, I had an entire room to myself. Chances were, there wouldn’t be any other idiots checking in so late.”
This was a tough day, and I had a brand-new blister on the bottom of my foot to show for it. Most of my blisters were around my heel or on top of the toes. The ones in this spot were painful and on a bad day, would hurt with every step.
Don’t worry, I promise not to post any more blister photos from my Camino. They wouldn’t fully heel until well after I had returned home.
On my next post, On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, El Burgo Ranero To León, after a good sleep, I woke up early to bright sunshine, the first time since my first day when I had left St. Jean Pied de Port. I also had the earliest start so far. I walked fast for a few hours, and then lost all energy, and struggled to get to León.
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