On The Camino de Santiago In Spain, Sahagún To El Burgo Ranero

April 6, 2012 — 12 Comments
Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

When I arrived in El Burgo Ranero just before eight-thirty, a group of pilgrims sitting outside the municipal albergue looked at me in disbelief. They gave the typical, “You’re #X$X& crazy!” stares, and I smiled and went inside. The albergue was full, so I went to the private one on the far edge of town. The hospitalera there said her albergue was also full, but she had private rooms available for €30. For some reason, I didn’t believe her albergue was full… From Page 120, Camino De Santiago In 20 Days.

When I reached the halfway point on the French Way of the Camino de Santiago in Sahagún, I didn’t really think about it too much. I didn’t jump up and down, or scream “hallelujah.” I was only halfway on an 800 kilometer walk, and still had a long ways to go. It was late afternoon anyway, and I wasn’t even sure where I’d be staying for the night. I hoped it would be in El Burgo Ranero, but it was almost 17 kilometers away. With only about 4 1/2 hours of daylight left, I needed to get moving. It turned out that the Camino between Sahagún and El Burgo Ranero, was mostly along senda. Walking was easy, there was little to see, and I had plenty of time to think. My mind would have been clearer though, if it wasn’t for the pain from a new blister forming. It was at a horrible spot, on the bottom of my right foot, at the base of the toes. Every time I stepped, I felt a little shot of pain.

I left my last post, On The Camino de Santiago In Sahagún, Spain, at the plaque for the halfway mark of the French Way, with the Arco San Benito in the background. Soon after, I arrived at this bridge over the Río Cea.

Photo of stone bridge, River, trees, bank, grass, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

The slow-moving Río Cea looked so peaceful. According to Gitlitz & Davidson on page 235 in their book, The Pilgrimage Road To Santiago, a nearby forest was the site of a battle in 1085 where 40,000 Christians lost their lives.

Photo of River, peaceful, trees, Willows, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

 I stopped for a moment to watch this fishermen.Photo of stone bridge, River, men, trees, clouds, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

This small patch of shrubs were in full bloom. I still haven’t figured out what they were, and if someone knows, please let me know.

Photo of pink flowers, clouds, shrub, ,Sahagún, Spain

 

 

 Not only were the streets of Sahagún quiet, but so was the road leading out of town. Although the wind had decreased from the morning, as you can tell, it continued to be a windy day. If you have my book, you will be relieved that my frustration with the wind was mostly taken out during my one tantrum.Photo of clouds, blue sky, road, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

The senda was shaded for the time being before…

Photo of gravel path, trees, shade, road, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

I was back into the open. The walking was easy, and this was where I had to make good time.

Photo of Senda, path, trees, road, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

On page 120 of my book, I wrote, “The Camino arrived at an option, and here I had a tough decision. On the left was the Real Camino Francés, and on the right was the Roman route. I would have liked to take them both. Although I really enjoyed the Roman roads and architecture, I wanted to walk as much of the entire French Way as possible. It was a shame; I missed out on thirty-five kilometers of the Roman route, an entire day of walking. It would have to wait for another time.”

Photo of sign, Camino de Santiago, trees, grass, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

The marking of the directions was a little rough.

Photo of yellow chalk on road Calzada romana, Sahagún, Spain, Camino de Santiago

 

 

I chose the left route: the Real Camino Francés.

Photo of blue sky, road, Junction, Sahagún, Spain, Camino de Santiago

 

 

This was an interesting sign of a cartoon image of a pilgrim. Someone must have hit the sign with their car and sent it flying.

Photo of sign on ground, Pilgrim, grass, flowers, Sahagún, Spain

 

 

The Real Camino Francés was very similar to the track before the option.

Photo of senda, path, trees, blue sky, clouds, road, Sahagún, Spain

 

 



 

 

The Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Perales was just east of Bercianos del Real Camino. It was once the site of a medieval hospice.

Photo of Mudéjar church, grass, clouds, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

 

 

Photo of Gothic cross, church, Mudéjar, trees, grass, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

 

 

A home at the edge of Bercianos del Real Camino.

Photo of house, lawn, blue sky, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

 

 

A monument for a fallen pilgrim. Photo of Memorial, cross, white, wooden, farmland, blue sky, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

 

 

  Approaching Bercianos del Real Camino.Photo of road, village, blue sky, clouds, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

 

 

Toward the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral (I think that is meant to be the cathedral).

Photo of hand painted sign, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain, Camino de Santiago

 

 

These two dogs watched closely as I passed by. Photo of blue sky, dogs, house, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

 

 

Leaving Bercianos del Real Camino. With the sun in my eyes, I put my sunglasses on. This was one of the few times I had actually needed them.

Photo of blue sky, senda, gravel path, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

  

Photo of water, blue sky, clouds, Marsh, Bercianos del Real Camino, Spain

 

 

Approaching El Burgo Ranero. Photo of sun, trees, road, senda, path, El Burgo Ranero, Spain

 

 

 This crucerio was on the edge of El Burgo Ranero. The town’s water tower is in the background.Photo of blue sky, cross, water tower, field, El Burgo Ranero, Spain

 

 

Photo of water tower, blue sky, trees, El Burgo Ranero, Spain

 

 

Crumbling walls. It was interesting seeing the building material in this part of Spain.

Photo of blue sky, walls, house, road, El Burgo Ranero, Spain

 

 

  The Church of San Pedro.

Photo of blue sky, church, Iglesia, stork, nest, Steeple, El Burgo Ranero, Spain

 

 

A White Stork of Spain.

Photo of stork, Nest, church, tower, El Burgo Ranero, Spain

 

 

I had arrived at about 8:30 and had a bit of a problem finding a bed. The municipal albergue was full and they couldn’t find a space for me. I walked to the end of the town to a private albergue, but the hospitalera told me that her’s was also full. Finally, I found this albergue on the main street, and was lucky they had a bed. I wrote a page 121, “Not only did I have a bed, I had an entire room to myself. Chances were, there wouldn’t be any other idiots checking in so late.”

Photo of hostel, Brown two-story building, El Burgo Ranero, Spain

 

 

This was a tough day, and I had a brand-new blister on the bottom of my foot to show for it. Most of my blisters were around my heel or on top of the toes. The ones in this spot were painful and on a bad day, would hurt with every step.

Photo of Randall St. Germain's blister, Camino de Santiago in 20 days

Don’t worry, I promise not to post any more blister photos from my Camino. They wouldn’t fully heel until well after I had returned home.

On my next post, On The Camino de Santiago in Spain, El Burgo Ranero To León, after a good sleep, I woke up early to bright sunshine, the first time since my first day when I had left St. Jean Pied de Port. I also had the earliest start so far. I walked fast for a few hours, and then lost all energy, and struggled to get to León.

If you have my book, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, or have ordered it, I really appreciate your support. It’s also out on Kindle and Kobo. My Goodreads and Amazon pages have reviews and more information. Please share this post, and thanks for your time.




About Randall St. Germain

Randall St. Germain, author of Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, is a middle-aged Canadian Boy who is passionate about nature, photography, hiking, music, and self-improvement. After the death of his mother, he chose to walk the famous pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago, across the north of Spain, despite knowing little about it. He certainly didn’t plan to write a book until the latter days of his Camino. Similar to walking the Camino, writing and publishing a book was a learning experience. It was also very rewarding, and part of his ongoing journey. Please join him as he takes you along on his journey in Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, and on his blog Camino My Way.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

12 responses to On The Camino de Santiago In Spain, Sahagún To El Burgo Ranero

  1. Hi Randall,
    Love the pictures, except the one of the blister…ouch! that must have hurt.

    • Thanks for your comment. Yes, those blisters in that spot always hurt like heck. Sometimes, I would take off my sock in the evening and be surprised just how large they were. Then, out came the needle and gauze.

      • Hi Randall,
        I finished the Camino Francés from Pamplona to El Burgo Ranero in March. Just found your website and have enjoyed it very much. Your blister picture caught my attention and I’m glad you posted it because I developed a blister looking exactly like yours but a bit more under the big toe after Hontanas. I’ve done the Camino Primitivo and the rest of the Francés and hike a lot at home and never had anything like it before. Any ideas of what caused yours so I can compare to mine? See you on a Camino, Olga

        • Olga, I believe blisters come from a hotspot created either from the boot, or a spot on the foot where there is constant friction. I believe my feet are susceptible to blisters. I know some say they never get them. I was walking long days so I’m sure that contributed too. On the French Way, I didn’t have my feet protected beforehand and started to get a blister on the second day. It got worse but they always healed to a point. On the Camino del Norte last summer, they were much worse with the heat, at least my little toes were much worse. If you look about mid July/12 on my Facebook page, you will see a not very nice photo of my little toe. That hurt!
          Thanks for stopping by 🙂

  2. I crossed that same river today 6th April 2013 and it was in full flood with several dipper birds doing their thing. For me a very hard day to El Burgo in a bitterly cold NW wind. Not sure how you had the time to take all those pics as well as walk!!

    • Thanks for your report from the Camino, David. For those people who think that all I did was walk as fast as I could, they must know that I took over 2000 photos. I had a very similar wind that day when I walked through Sahagún. David, stay safe and be careful of the wind and cold. I wish you sunny days ahead. Feel free to post any photos to my Facebook page. Buen Camino 🙂

  3. can you please email me about yoru trip ,for my project please

    • Jalicia, it’s best if you look at this blog and my book. Those are already detailed. If you have any more questions, you can send me a message and I’ll do my best to answer. All the best with your project. Thanks for stopping by 🙂

  4. Hi Randall, I just found your blog. Enjoying the music and your blog. My husband and I will be serving as hospitaleros in El Burgo Ranero municipal the last two weeks of October 2016. I stayed there in late September 2010.

    • Thank you very much. Glad you enjoy the music too. Loved my short stay in El Burgo Ranero. That is so kind for you to volunteer. I’ve been thinking of that too. I wish you all the best. Buen Camino 🙂

  5. Hello Randall, In answer to your question about the flowering shrub, it’s called a tamarisk. They were in flower when I was there, too. I guess I was not far behind you, May 2012. I went back last fal (2015) l. The camino is so different at that time of year!
    Joanne, North Vancouver

  6. Ahhh… tamarisk. Thank you very much. I’ve walked Caminos in Spring and Summer but not the Fall. Maybe next time. Take care, Joanne 🙂

Leave a Reply

Text formatting is available via select HTML. <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>

*