On and Off the Camino del Norte in Guernica, Spain

July 30, 2015 — Leave a comment
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In January of 1937, the Republican government, then mired in the Spanish Civil War against the Nationalists led by General Francisco Franco, commissioned renowned Spanish artist, Pablo Picasso, to paint a large mural to be displayed at the 1937 World’s Fair in Paris. Picasso, who had left Spain in 1934 and not returned, had toiled with different ideas for the mural, and abandoned his initial project when he heard of a significant Spanish and World history changing-event.

The 26th of April, 1937 was a market day in the Basque town of Guernica (Gernika in Basque and officially Gernika-Lumo) but this day would be like no other in its long history. At 16:30, air forces led by the Condor Legion of the German Luftwaffe with support from Mussolini’s Italian air legion, began an assault that would last three hours, and destroy or severely damage almost every building in Guernica. Although the number of dead has been debated for years, it is now accepted to be between 200 and 300 with many more being injured.

Why did the bombing of Guernica happen? From the perspective of Franco’s Spanish Nationalist government, it intended to demoralized and break the Basque people and the Republicans. It may be arguable, but Hitler and the military of Nazi Germany were not only looking to complete a favour for their ally, General Francisco Franco, but were looking for somewhere to “practice.” Hitler and the Nazis wanted to test and hone their new method of carpet bombing that would later be used in Russia and throughout Europe in World War II.

The Bombing of Guernica greatly benefited Franco and his regime. Aided by Hitler, the Nationalists won the Spanish Civil War in 1939, and Franco began a 36 year tenure as Spain’s leader until he passed away in 1975. There was uproar around the World after the bombing of Guernica. The Nazis tried to downplay the bombing by saying they had just intended to take out a bridge. Of course, that was not the case, and highly unlikely since Hitler had sent his best pilots and bombers. In later years, Guernica would be known for a town of peace and today, is home to a peace museum. The events not only influenced and inspired Picasso, but writers, musicians, and other artists such as sculptor René Iché.

When I talked to other pilgrims on the Camino del Norte, many had no idea of the history of Guernica. I’d recommend reading and having at least some understanding of the events that took place in the Basque town before you arrive. Now, let’s get back to my Camino. I left my last post, On the Camino Del Norte in Spain, Berriondo to Guernica, on the outskirts of Guernica in the very small town of Ajánguiz. It was once part of Guernica but annexed in 1991.

Guernica Gernika sign camino road

 

 

The Iglesia de la Ascensión in Ajánguiz is a simple, but striking church built in the neoclassical style.

Guernica iglesia de la Ascensión camino norte

 

 

Overlooking Guernica. Just a few kilometers to the town center.

Guernica Gernika espana basque

 

 

The walk is downhill and easy, but dangerous along this road with no shoulders. If you have only walked the Camino Francés, this may be a bit of a shock to you. Be careful, fellow pilgrims!

Guernica espana basque camino del norte

 

 

Welcome to Guernica! We’ll head toward the downtown area.

Guernica camino norte Gernika espana

 

 

I only include this to remind myself of the temperature late in the day — 26.5 degrees Celsius with some cloud cover. This day was one of the worst for my nausea. I had been run down after walking so much in the heat. Not eating or going to the bathroom sufficiently didn’t help either.

Guernica Farmazia Gernika espana

 

 

The Mundaka River has been important to Guernica and one of the main reasons why the town is situated here.

Guernica canal Gernika espana

 

 

A modern look and feel through the downtown.

Guernica camino road Gernika espana

 

 

I have no idea what this building is but liked the view through the trees.

Guernica building camino Gernika espana

 

 

The Cultural Center, Udal Kultur Etxea, is besides the main plaza, Plaza de Foru or Fueros Square.

Guernica Udal Kultur Etxea culture espana

 

 

In the center of Plaza de Foru, this is the monument for Count Don Tello who founded Guernica in 1366. The sword in his right hand represents a sign of strength and his left hand holds a scroll for the laws of the town.

Guernica count conde don tello

 

 

The Peace Museum. I never had a chance to visit but understand it is well-worth it if you have time. It is the first peace museum of Spain, and exhibits photos of the bombing and aftermath with testimonies from survivors.

Gernika Udal Kultur Etxea culture espana

 

A block away, make sure you visit the beautiful Ferial Gardens, Jardines del Ferial, and the surrounding buildings. Besides the flowers, this clock is an interesting highlight.

Guernica Euzkadi clock flowers Ferial Gardens

 

 

Guernica clock Jardines del Ferial Euzkadi

 

 

On the left is the public school, one of the few buildings that survived the bombing.

Guernica Plaza public school

 

 

If you are visiting Guernica, please don’t miss the Assembly Hall or Biscayan Assembly House, designed by architect Antonio de Etxebarria and completed in 1833. If you’re walking the Camino del Norte, you really can’t miss it as it passes through these grounds.

Guernica Assembly Hall spain basque

 

 

An important monument to the people of Guernica is to the right of Biscayan Assembly House. This is the Oak of Guernica which is a landmark full of symbolism for the Basque people. It represents freedom and renewal in the sense that the trees are always replanted with their own acorns. The monument is important because since the 14th century, the Biscayan Assembly had met under an oak tree prior to the House being built. The Oak of Guernica was planted in the 1740s and lived until the 19th century. In 2015, a new oak tree was planted in front of another landmark, the Oath Tribune. Let’s take a closer look at the Oak of Guernica…

 

 

Guernica Gernikako Arbola Camino

 

 

tree of Guernica basque Euzkadi

 

 

The interior of the Biscayan Assembly House is filled with art and is well-known for its beautiful stained glass. This is one of the amazing pieces, with an oak tree and the people of Guernica prominently featured.

Guernica Assembly Hall Stained glass tree

 

 

Another look at the Biscayan Assembly House. I visited the House twice with a lunch break in between.

Guernica spain Assembly Hal camino norte

 

 

The gate leading to the Biscayan Assembly House.

Guernica Assembly Hall gate

 

 

Nearby is the mural depicting Guernica, the famous painting by Pablo Picasso. Let’s take a closer look…

Guernica Pablo Picasso mural

 

 

The piece depicts the aftermath of the bombing — the damage to the buildings and the suffering of not only the people, but the animals. The horror of the bombing! The actual mural by Picasso is displayed at Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid. It is large at 349 by 776 cm or 137.4 × 305.5 inches

Guernica Gernika Pablo Picasso

 

 

Another beautiful building that could be a palace.

Guernica basque palace Spain

 

 

Just above Plaza de Foru, the Iglesia de Santa Maria was not destroyed during the bombing but severely damaged. A subsequent fire claimed many relics including the parochial archive. Thankfully, the church’s organ survived and although doors were locked when I stopped by, I understand it is the main attraction of the interior.

Guernica iglesia de santa maria

 

 

Gernika iglesia de santa maria Spain

 

 

The rebuilt archivolt and main entrance of the Church of Santa Maria.

Guernica iglesia de santa maria archivolt

 

I hope you enjoyed this post, as I thought it was important to covey some of the history of the Basque town. I’ll stop at the church but our visit to Guernica is not over yet. On my next post, On the Camino del Norte, Guernica to Pepiena, Spain, we will visit Park of the Peoples of Europe, before a steep climb in the hills to the west. Please join me.

If you have my book, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, or have ordered it, I really appreciate your support. It’s also out on Kindle and Kobo. My Goodreads and Amazon pages have reviews and more information. Please share this post, and thanks for your time.




About Randall St. Germain

Randall St. Germain, author of Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, is a middle-aged Canadian Boy who is passionate about nature, photography, hiking, music, and self-improvement. After the death of his mother, he chose to walk the famous pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago, across the north of Spain, despite knowing little about it. He certainly didn’t plan to write a book until the latter days of his Camino. Similar to walking the Camino, writing and publishing a book was a learning experience. It was also very rewarding, and part of his ongoing journey. Please join him as he takes you along on his journey in Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, and on his blog Camino My Way.

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