Triacastela refers to the three castles that once stood here, but none remain. It’s also the end of the last mountainous area on the Camino. The difficulty wasn’t lessened because the farther I went, the more I was worn down, and even climbing the smallest of hills felt like climbing a mountain… From Page 168, Camino De Santiago In 20 Days. I believe you have to undertake a long-distance walk to fully understand that statement. If you plan to walk the French Way of the Camino de Santiago in Galicia you’ll get to experience many ups and downs through the valleys. It could be exhilarating or exhausting, depending on how you feel.
I left my last post, On The Camino De Santiago in Spain, Biduedo to Triacastela, at this spooky scene as I approached the ancient hamlet of Ramil. If you have my book, this was where I had a man yelling at me from the upper window of a home. I never did anything wrong, and when he motioned for me to stop, I took off as fast as I could. I must admit though, I don’t remember the scene being this spooky.
The sweet chestnut is native to Europe and has been used for centuries not only for its fruit, but for its wood. The region around Triacastela celebrates the importance of the chestnut in a festival, Magosto, in November.
I know the writing on this photo is probably too small to read here, so please check out my Facebook page for a larger image.
This is the Iglesia de Santiago, a church that was unique for it’s width, or in this case, its lack of width. As you can tell, this church looks nothing like the rustic ones on the mountains.
On the next morning, Triacastela was rather quiet. The town was founded in the ninth century and has always been an important Camino town. The three castles and the hospices that once stood here have long disappeared.
A pilgrim monument. The yellow arrow shows the way.
From Triacastela, pilgrims have two options. One is the northern route through the Alto do Riocabo that some believe was the more traditional one. Although it’s 6.5 kilometers longer, I chose to take the more popular option to the village of Samos because I had heard so much about its monastery. I also wanted to stay away from as much pavement as possible. The southern route would take us through some classic Galician tracks, and as I would find out later, through a whole lot of mud too. The morning started off with a pleasant walk along the highway through the Oribio Valley.
Some of the hamlets of Galicia look like they have changed little for centuries. This is San Cristobo do Real.
These women were very protective of their sheep.
I loved this scene of the old mill and the Río Oribio.
Although I really enjoyed walking along classic Galician tracks such as this one, I really disliked walking through the mud and puddles. This was by far not the worst.
I hope you enjoyed this post as I’ll stop just before I begin to climb this hill. When I mentioned the numerous ups and downs, this is a good example of what you’re in for. Although I complained about the mud, I certainly enjoyed these walks more than along the highways. On my next post, On The Camino De Santiago in Spain, San Cristobo to Samos, I’ll continue along farmland, through ancient hamlets to the historic town of Samos. Please join me.
If you have my book, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days, or have ordered it, I really appreciate your support. It’s also out on Kindle. My Goodreads page has reviews and more information. Please share this post, and thanks for your time.