The rain stopped as I left Liñares, and by the time I made the short climb to the Alto de San Roque, the sun had emerged to expose the true beauty of the mountains and valleys. There were vibrant shades of green from farmland, shrubs, and trees. The soil was a reddish-brown, although I never saw the red until the sun came out. The alto had a large, modern, bronze statue of a pilgrim, and one of the cyclists looked so happy and proud as he posed in front. As they left, we waved to each other and they quickly disappeared. I admired them for taking the more difficult route up the mountain because they didn’t have to…. From Page 164, Camino De Santiago In 20 Days.
I left my last post, On The Camino De Santiago in Spain, La Faba to O Cebreiro, as I entered the ancient village of O’Cebreiro on a cold, rainy, and foggy day. I hope to return again when the weather is much better. If you get a chance, please watch Rick Steves’ Europe 2010 show Galicia and the Camino de Santiago, where he visited O’Cebreiro on a bright, sunny day. The village looked beautiful in HD. I’m sure those of you who have seen O’Cebreiro in the sun can attest to that.
For many pilgrims arriving to O’Cebreiro in the afternoon, you will most likely stop at the albergue. It’s in a convenient location along the Camino and difficult to miss. After taking a break at a downstairs bar without any heat, I soon started shivering and had to leave. This was the track leaving O’Cebreiro that gently climbed through the forest.
The Church of San Esteban in the hamlet of Liñares, just three kilometers from O’Cebreiro. It was rebuilt in 1963 but the original dates from the 12th century.
Another muddy path through the forest. You can see the tire marks from the many cyclists.
A little better view as I approached the Alto do San Roque. This was the first good look at Galicia.
The Alto do San Roque
The Alto do San Roque marks the second last high elevation point along the Camino Francés. I think most pilgrims are happy to arrive here, but there is one more climb just ahead.
The aforementioned pilgrim monument is always a popular spot for photos. The pilgrim is shown as he walks through a harsh wind. Here, one of the cyclists I had met earlier proudly posed after a difficult climb.
As the sun briefly emerged, so did the vibrant colors.
A beautiful view as I approached the hamlet of Hospital da Condesa.
145 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela
Hospital da Condesa was named for the hospice that once served pilgrims here. None of it remains.
Initially, I thought this church was old but it was completely rebuilt in 1963. The original was built in the 12th century.
As you can tell, the tower was undergoing some kind of maintenance. I admired the simpleness of these mountain churches in Galicia. There would be many more to come.
I hope you enjoyed this post as I’ll stop in Hospital da Condesa. On my next post, On The Camino De Santiago in Spain, Hospital da Condesa to Biduedo, as the rain returned, I’ll climb to the next alto before I descended the mountain during an eventful afternoon. Although, I’ll leave most of the situation for my book, I had a surprising moment courtesy of a large dog.
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