The most elaborate church in Cacabelos also housed an albergue, and I greeted another pilgrim who stood outside. The Spanish pilgrim who was no longer my friend went inside, and it looked like I’d be alone again. The church had an interesting but unsettling statue outside of a figure who I presumed was Mary holding a baby Jesus. However, in this case, Jesus had an adult face. It kind of creeped me out… From Page 156, Camino de Santiago In 20 Days. We’ll get to that soon but it wasn’t only that figure. I later found out that the retablo inside the church had a figure of Jesus playing cards. Weird!
Now, I’ll continue with my journey on the Camino de Santiago in Cacabelos, Castilla y León. Even if you don’t have my book, you can still enjoy this post, and learn more about walking the French Way or Camino Francés (map from Wikipedia Commons). On my last post, On The Camino De Santiago in Spain, Camponaraya to The Vineyards and Cacabelos, I finished with this photo of a simple wooden sign, adorned by a pink rose, pointing the way to Santiago. This was near the end of the dirt path, which led to…
this road that takes you into the town of Cacabelos.
I really enjoyed the decorations and art that residents placed in front of some of the homes. This stained-glass panel was one of them and I wish I had one like it.
According to the town’s website, although the area was inhabited by the Romans, Cacabelos wasn’t mentioned until the 10th century. It’s a typical Camino town with one very long main road. Cacabelos once had six hospices and was known as a center for wine and agriculture. Another notable piece of history was the 12th century earthquake that destroyed the village. Here is the modern area and quiet streets of Cacabelos in the midafternoon.
This is La Ermita de San Roque. Its construction of stone with slate roofs reminded me of the ones in the mountains between Astorga and Molinaseca, and the next day in Galicia.
A closer look at the roof from this angle will give you a better idea on the construction using slate.
I loved this view of the narrow streets of old Cacabelos with the Iglesia de Santa Maria just ahead.
The 16th-century Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Plaza has a unique construction. Note the placement of stones on the façade with a single tower rising above. The stained glass window was also prominently located. Of course, I enjoyed seeing the stork nest on top of the tower.
On the outside of the church, this banner commemorated the 2010 Holy Year.
I also loved the façade of this house, especially the windows and the decorative planters.
The relatively peaceful Río Cúa is very important to the area for irrigation and drainage.
Across the Cúa is the church, Santuario Virgen de las Angustias which currently houses an albergue. If you find yourself late in the day, you may want to stay the night here. The next alberque (at time of writing) is in Villafranca Del Bierzo, about 9 kilometers away. This church had some interesting sculptures as I noted above.
First, a look at the bell gable.
Okay, I hope I don’t offend anyone but I have no idea how old this sculpture is or what it’s supposed to represent. As I mentioned before…
it kind of creeped me out. Maybe, and most likely, I’m missing something.
The Camino leaves Cacabelos along the highway, with many short ups and downs ahead. Be careful not to get hit here.
I hope you enjoyed this post. On my next post, On The Camino De Santiago in Spain, Cacabelos to Villafranca Del Bierzo, I continued through the picturesque Bierzo Valley toward Villafranca Del Bierzo and Galicia. Please join me.
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